All properties lose heat through their windows. Installing energy efficient double-glazing is an effective way of reducing your energy bills and keeping your home warmer and quieter.
Double-glazed windows use two sheets of glass with a gap between them which creates an insulating barrier, whilst triple-glazed windows have three sheets of glass. Both options can deliver a high level of energy efficiency; it is not the case that you have to use triple-glazing to gain the most energy efficient window.
The space between the glass panes can be filled with either a vacuum (quite rare nowadays because they require excellent sealing, otherwise the vacuum diminishes so the efficiency decreases), or a heavy inert gas such as Argon, Krypton or Xenon. Both these methods are trying to create a more effective insulating barrier, known scientifically as increasing the R-value (which is the measure of thermal resistance).
Energy efficient double-glazed windows are available in a variety of frame materials (including uPVC and more traditional wood) and styles. These windows vary in their energy efficiency, depending on how well they stop heat from passing out through the window, how much sunlight travels through the glass and the amount of air that can leak in or out around the window.
Some double-glazing window and door manufacturers helpfully use a window energy rating scheme to show the energy efficiency of their product. This is similar to the one you may have seen on appliances such as your fridge, or washing machine. A-rated windows are the most efficient. To check a window’s energy efficiency before you buy, look at its energy label.
Questions to ask yourself before investing in double glazing:
1. How energy efficient are the windows?
When choosing replacement double-glazed windows, you can check their energy efficiency by looking at the Energy Saving Trust Recommended logo and British Fenestration Rating Council (BFRC) energy label. The higher the energy rating, the more energy efficient it is. The Energy Saving Trust endorses any windows rated B or above. Unfortunately, at the moment there is no obligation for window manufacturers to label their products; however by opting for a highly-rated window you know you will be buying the most efficient.
For a list of all types of double-glazed/triple-glazed windows and their frame material and energy rating, visit the BFRC website.
2. How many layers of glass is best?
Double glazing has two layers of glass with a gap of around 16mm between them. There’s also the option of triple glazing, which has three layers of glass. Both A-rated double and tripled-glazed windows are available.
3. What type of glass is best?
The most energy efficient glass for double-glazing is low emissivity (Low-E) glass. This often has an unnoticeable coating of metal oxide, normally on one of the internal panes – next to the gap. It lets sunlight and heat in but cuts the amount of heat that can get out again.
4. What is between the panes?
Very efficient windows might use gases like argon, xenon or krypton in the gap, or a vacuum between the two sheets of glass.
5. What keeps the panes apart?
All double-glazed windows have pane spacers set around the inside edges to keep the two panes of glass apart. For a more efficient window, look for pane spacers containing little or no metal – often known as ‘warm edge’ spacers.
The BFRC window energy rating scheme checks all the components to ensure the final window achieves the energy efficient standard claimed. This means that you just need to look for the A-G ratings and remember A is best! Alternatively, just look for the Energy Saving Trust Recommended logo which will only be found on glazing that is B rated or above.
6. Which frame suits your home?
The frame you choose will depend on your home and your personal taste. For all frame materials there are windows available in each energy rating.
uPVC frames are the most common type. They last a long time and can be recycled.
Wooden frames can have a lower environmental impact, but require maintenance. They are often used in conservation areas where the original windows were timber framed.
Aluminium or steel frames are slim and long-lasting. They can be recycled.
Composite frames have an inner timber frame covered with aluminium or plastic. This reduces the need for maintenance and keeps the frame weatherproof.
7. Do you need ventilation?
Because replacement double-glazed windows will be more airtight than the original single-glazed frames, condensation can build up in your house due to the reduced ventilation.
If there is not a sufficient level of background ventilation in the room, some replacement windows will have trickle vents incorporated into the frame that let in a small amount of controlled ventilation.
Condensation can sometimes occur on the outside of new low-e glazing. This is because low-e glass reflects heat back into the home and as a result the outside pane remains cool and condensation can build up in cold weather – you don’t need to worry about it.
Benefits of installing double glazing
Lower energy bills: replacing all single-glazed windows with energy efficient double-glazing could save you around £135 per year on your energy bills.
A smaller carbon footprint: by using less fuel, you’ll generate less of the carbon dioxide (CO2) that leads to global warming.
A more comfortable home: energy efficient glazing reduces heat loss through windows and means fewer draughts and cold spots.
Peace and quiet: as well as keeping the heat in, energy efficient windows insulate your home against unwanted outside noise.
Reduced condensation: energy efficient glazing reduces condensation build-up on the inside of windows.
The costs and savings of double glazing will be different for each home and each window, depending on the size, material and installer. Savings will also vary depending on how much you currently pay for your heating fuel; these savings are based on a gas-heated home.
Installing double glazing
When you plan an installation, you need to know about building regulations and what to do if double-glazing doesn’t suit your property, as well as how to maintain your windows. When you think about replacement glazing, you need to make sure your windows are installed correctly and comply with all the relevant regulations.
Building regulations
Under building regulations in England and Wales new and replacement windows must meet certain energy efficiency requirements:
New and replacement windows in existing homes in England and Wales must be at least WER band C or U-value 1.6 In Scotland must be at least WER band C or U value 1.6 In Northern Ireland must be at least WER band E or U value 2.0 or centre pane U value 1.2.
However, if you live in a conservation area, have an ‘article four’ direction on your property or have a listed building, additional regulations are likely to apply. Before you do any work, make sure you check with your local planning office. An ‘Article 4’ direction removes the right of permitted development, meaning that you will have to apply for planning permission before replacing any windows. This is often applied in conservation areas.
How to comply with regulations
To make sure regulations are complied with, there are certain rules about the way you can install windows:
For DIY installations you must apply for building control approval before installing the windows. For professional installations, your installer should be registered with a competent persons scheme or register the installation through Local Authority Building Control.
Competent Persons schemes in England and Wales are the Fenestration Self-Assessment Scheme (FENSA), the British Standards Institution (BSI) or Certass Glazing Scheme.
Find registered installers
FENSA guarantees that its installers and frames comply with building regulations. To find a FENSA registered installer, visit the FENSA website.
Certass is another scheme that registers and approves installers. To find a Certass registered installer visit the Certass website.
Ask your installer when you will get a certificate after installation is completed, which demonstrates the installation has been completed in compliance with building regulations.
Other options for improving the energy efficiency of your windows
If you can’t install double-glazing (e.g. if you live in a conservation area or in a listed building) you have other options:
Heavy curtains
Curtains lined with a layer of heavy material can reduce heat loss from a room through the window at night and cut draughts. They will save some energy, but should only be used as a short term measure.
This could be something to think about when re-decorating!
Secondary glazing
Secondary glazing works by fitting a secondary pane of glass and frame, inside the existing window reveal. This is likely to be less effective than replacement windows, as the units tend to be not as well sealed, however it is considerably cheaper than double-glazing. Low emissivity glass is available for secondary-glazing, which will improve the performance.
Benefits
Double glazing keeps the heat in your house, reducing your utility bills as less heating is required to heat your house.
Approximately £150 per annum can be saved based on a 3 bed semi-detached & a B-rated product or above, this has the potential to lower CO2 emissions by 680kg per year.
Double glazing acts as a sound proofing mechanism, which makes it an ideal solution if you live near a busy road.
There are many different designs available for you to choose from to match the style of your home. Secondary glazing (which acts in a similar fashion to double glazing) can even allow you to keep your original windows in their current form.
Limitations
Double-glazed windows on occasion can get moisture trapped inside them if they are not installed properly, or are not completely air tight so have to be repaired / replaced.
During the summer, double glazing can end up trapping too much heat in the house making it uncomfortably warm.
Cost
The cost of double glazing your house depends on how many windows you are replacing, the type of frame you use (e.g. wood, uPVC) and the size of each of the frames. As rough guide, a sash uPVC window will cost you approximately £700, while a wooden framed equivalent will cost about £1,100.
The Energy Saving Trust endorses any windows rated B or above.
Insulating your Loft Rafters: a Step-By-Step Guide
Insulating the rafter space will give you a warm loft. This means insulating between or below the sloping beams that form the construction and support a sloping roof. The rafters are joined together by a horizontal ridge board at the top and tied together by ceiling joists at the bottom.
Having chosen to insulate your rafters and potentially use the loft space as an extension of your living area, you need to be aware of some safety features before you read on:
Ensure if you are placing heavy objects or walking in the loft space you have fix boards to your joists, otherwise there is a danger you may fall through the ceiling.
Be aware of pipes and electrical cables.
Making the loft warm is not a substitute for a full professional conversion.
Insulating your rafters as a DIY job
If your loft is easy to access, the insulating process should be pretty straightforward and can be undertaken as a DIY job. However, if you have any doubt in your own ability to carry out the work, we recommend getting a professional to do it.
There are two ways you can do this as a DIY job:
Insulating between the rafters
Insulating below the rafters
Normally, people use mineral wool or insulation boards to insulate the rafter space. We prefer recycled insulation for obvious reasons.
If you are planning to use wool then it is imperative you wear protective clothing, goggles and a face mask, since the wool is an irritant.
Before you get to the business-end of installing the product you need to make sure you have prepared the workspace in the loft and have also bought the right quantity of materials. There is a quick step-by-step guide below on what you should do before you begin any work:
Clean the rafter space by vacuuming between them, removing any dust that may have settled there over time.
Make sure you pay attention to any cracks, dry rot or damage to the rafters and the roof membrane. If it looks unsafe to work, stop what you are doing and immediately seek professional help to repair these areas.
Check the wiring is ok.
Ensure a good level of lighting in the loft to provide decent visibility to help you do the work.
Ensure you have boards laid out on the joists, as you will be moving around the loft and transferring your body weight onto the ceiling below.
Once you have all the space figured out you will need to do an equipment check. Here is what we recommend you find before starting:
Tough pair of scissors
Measuring tape
Protective overalls and gloves when handling rock or glass wool
Safety goggles
A disposable mask
Safety helmet
If you are handling insulation boards then you may also require the following:
A saw
Drill
Nail gun
Wooden battens
Another option are loft lifters, which are easy-to-install joist extenders that raise your loft boarding in order to allow extra insulation between your joists.
Remember: safety should always be paramount. Stop working if you start to feel unwell and consult a professional. Do not look to undertake any work under the influence of alcohol!
Measuring the size of your rafter coverage
After you have cleared bulky objects, you will be able to see the area more clearly. When measuring your loft space here is a simple guide:
Take a measuring device (tape measure or a laser measure) and measure the rafter area – this can be done by measuring from the apex of the roof down to where the sloping roof meets the horizontal joists and multiplying by the breadth of the roof.
Take into consideration the thickness you want to insulate – it is recommended you insulate to at least 100mm to get the optimal performance
Measure the width of your rafters – this is important if you are thinking of insulating below the rafters
Write down these measurements on a piece of paper and then take them with you to a DIY shop to buy the insulation or order the materials online.
DIY rafter insulation
Before you apply the insulating material you will need to measure and leave a space of about 50mm between the roof (breathable membrane or tiled) and your insulating material so air can travel freely through, otherwise you could have issues with condensation and damp.
The depth of rafter will obviously influence the thickness of insulation you can fit between them, but you can always extend the rafter by attaching a wooden extension to it, since the more insulation you can fit in place, the warmer the loft space will be.
When handling wool, ensure you take enough rolls with you into your loft space. Use scissors to cut through the packaging and lay out the material. You will need to start at the top, stapling the wool material to the sides of rafters on each side. Carry on fixing the material until you have the whole space covered. You will need to have your dimensions correctly mapped out as you need to have material that covers the width of the rafter space.
Make sure the insulation is 50mm below the actual roof, which can be done using the battens as your measuring gauge for the breathable area between the roof and the insulating material.
Depending how deep your rafter is you may be able to fit two layers of 100mm thick wool insulation. To ensure bits don’t fall off you can then attach a layer of netting that will ensure the material is further supported from the forces of gravity.
At this point, if you are bothered about aesthetics you can fix a thin layer of plasterboard to the bottom of the rafters (with the material already snuggly fitted between them), and paint over it. Although you will lose you some headroom, it does improve the visuals of the place.
Your rigid boards will need to be cut to fit the gaps between the rafters. When they are cut ensure there is a relatively tight fit between the edges so that it could be stapled to the rafters. The wooden battens that sit further in the rafter will act as an automatic stabiliser, so the boards could easily sit on top of them.
Again make sure you select the right thickness of the material so you fill as much of the rafter gap as possible. To ensure you don’t have bits flying off you can get sheets of see-through film and staple it to the underside of the rafters.
Using rigid boards as opposed to wool is a much more precise process, as the cuttings need to be almost perfect to snugly fit rather than the wool, where your material can be folded and moulded to fit into the rafter space. If you are in doubt please consult a professional.
When you use solid insulation board to create a warm loft the key thing to remember is ventilation – you must keep a 50mm gap between the roof and the rigid insulation board. We would always recommend having a breathable membrane in place between the tiles and the rafters too to allow the roof to breathe. If there is no vapour layer it might result in damp issues, since the warm air may condense in the loft space on cold surfaces. Water and timber don’t work too well together and it could result in the timbers rotting.
The best way to achieve the gap is to attach some dowel batons on the inside of the rafters so you can then butt the insulation board up to them ensuring the 50mm gap is still in place. If you measure the thickness of the rafter, then less the 50mm gap – this is the thickness of the rigid board you want to put between the rafters. By doing this the insulation board will then not protrude out past the outside edge of the rafters, which means that you can then very simply attach more insulation boards, fixing them directly to the rafters to achieve the required depth of insulation.
What materials can you use to insulate below the rafters?
If you have shallow rafters or just don’t care about losing the headroom, then fixing material on the underside of the rafters is the much easier way to insulate at rafter level. Here you don’t have issues with condensation or worrying about leaving a gap in the roof membrane.
Your rigid boards will need to be cut with some logic so that you can move from one side of the roof to the other. Insulation boards come in different sizes, and as long as you figure out a plan as to how you will cover the rafter space then you should be fine.
You need to nail them to the underside of the rafters to ensure they can be fixed. You can use a nail gun or a conventional hammer and nails to do this. If you are using a nail gun, ensure that you handle it with care.
At this point you may also decide that it is sensible to do this as a lone ranger. Having someone there holding the material in place while you fix the edges will ensure the process is more efficient. In addition having a fresh pair of eyes and hands means you always have a second opinion during this process.
At the end you may want to put a decorative finish by covering with a thin layer of plasterboard and painting a finish.
Installing reflective foil
The reflective foil installation is the easiest of the processes, however the thermal insulation result is the poorest.
Unroll the material and start on one side of the loft. Staple the foil to the underside of the rafter, ensuring as you roll-out the material you staple to all the rafters. You will eventually get to the other side of the room having covered a level with this insulating material.
You either now move onto the other direction of the loft or you position the foil below or above the level you have just insulated. The idea is that by the end of the process you would have covered the whole loft space.
Water Tank and Pipe Insulation
Insulation
What is pipe insulation?
There is a complex network of water pipes in most homes in the UK. As many of these pipes are located in the loft, they are more likely to freeze in the winter (if cold water pipes), but also they can lose heat (if hot water is sitting in them). To minimise the risk of both freezing and heat loss, these copper pipes can be insulated fairly cheaply with pipe insulation, often referred to as pipe lagging. Lagging is simply a tube of insulating material with a slit all the way down its length, which is fitted over the pipe and then held in place with electrical tape if necessary (it should be a snug fit, so this tape might not be needed).
Fitting insulation to pipes is easy if the pipes are accessible and will cost from around £10. Professional help may be required to fit insulation to harder to reach pipework, which would naturally incur extra cost.
Insulating your hot water cylinder is one of the simplest and easiest ways to save energy and money. Fitting a British Standard ’jacket’ around your cylinder will cut heat loss by over 75%. If you already have a jacket fitted, check that it’s at least 80mm thick. If not, it’s well worth treating your old cylinder to a new winter coat! When purchasing the tank insulation jacket, it is worth going to your DIY store knowing the height and girth of your water cylinder to ensure you buy one that fits snuggly, and it is important the jacket that you buy conforms to British Safety Standard BS 5615 (1985).
If everyone in the UK topped up their hot water tank insulation to the full recommended thickness of 80mm, there would be enough CO2 saved per year to fill 5.3 million double decker buses.
A hot water cylinder jacket is a low cost product and is a simple DIY job.
Benefits
Fitting a British Standard ’jacket’ around your cylinder will cut heat loss by over 75%.
A new, 75mm thick hot water cylinder jacket will save you around £35 per year.
Insulation for hot water pipes will save you around £10 a year.
You will save about 170kg of carbon dioxide (CO2) when you fit a British standard hot water cylinder jacket and around 60kg of CO2 with pipe insulation.
Limitations
Payback time is not particularly cost effective, unless you use a lot of gas.
Cost
A new hot water tank jacket will save you about £35 per year, and cost you about £15 to install as a DIY job. This means it will payback in under 6 months and will also reduce your carbon footprint by 170kg per year.
Primary pipe insulation will save you about £10 per year, and cost you the same to install as a DIY job. This means it will payback in about a year and will also reduce your carbon footprint by 50kg per year.
Insulating a floor means adding an insulating material beneath the floorboards, thereby reducing heat escaping through the floor into the ground. Approximately 15% of heat is lost from a house via this route. Insulation also acts to prevent draughts coming up through the floorboards. In addition the household should also consider insulating the gaps between the skirting boards and the floor, which also helps in reducing draughts.
Floor insulation is most commonly done when putting a new floor in place, but most floors can be retrofitted with insulating material, and this will make a large saving to your overall heating bill. Depending on how confident you are with DIY, it is possible to install floor insulation yourself.
Filling the gap between the skirting boards and the floor can save about £25, recouped within the year (assuming a £20 material cost).
Since the insulation will slow the movement of heat through the floor, the home will feel more comfortable and warmer in the winter, but cooler in the summer months.
You can reduce your carbon footprint by about 240kg per year by installing floor insulation and almost 100kg if you fill the gaps between the floor and skirting boards.
According to the Energy Saving Trust, installing floor insulation underneath a wood surface saves about £60 per year, which would mean a payback of 2 years based on recouping the material costs (approximately £100).
Limitations of floor insulation
If you are wishing to installing the floor insulation as a DIY project, you will need to move furnishings and potentially remove carpets and floorboards.
Additional costs may add up, if once you remove the floorboards, you discover that some are rotten, therefore the overall insulation costs may be higher than previously predicted.
Cost of floor insulation
Professional installation costs start at £770, dependant on the size of the floor space installation.
DIY Cost for wooden floor insulation cost approximately £100 and it will cost about £20 to buy the materials to fill the gaps between the floor and the skirting boards.
Installing floor insulation
Interested in having floor insulation installed? The Green Homes Grant is a Government run scheme lasting until March 2022. The scheme offers grants up to £10,000, under-floor insulation is a primary measure that can be installed utilizing the scheme.
If you are interested in the Green Homes Grant, we advise looking in to this on the Government website.
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How warm should my house be?
March 3, 2018
Some people like to heat their homes to Sahara-like temperatures, while others prefer a more arctic feel, however the majority of us sit somewhere in between. The whole ‘how hot should my house be’ topic is a bit of a contentious issue, so I will take you through some of the key points and try to give you a better idea of the temperature that might be right for your home.
What does the government say about temperature?
A recent government study found that in the UK, the average temperature of a home is 17.7°C, whilst the recommended level is 21°C (70°F). This discrepancy in temperatures has been used to show how fuel poverty was preventing people from heating their homes to a comfortable temperature – it is estimated that 2.5m people are currently living in fuel poverty.
This is really oversimplified though, because some people will need higher temperatures – like the elderly or ill – whilst the average person can get away with having the temperature much lower. It is a little odd for the government to recommend this relatively high temperature when it is trying to reduce energy consumption.
To be honest, the majority of people can live very comfortably at a temperature well below 21°C, so don’t just set the thermostat at this temperature out of habit!
Many people use a thermostat to set their temperature, but you need to make sure it is set up correctly. A thermostat works by recording the ambient air temperature around it. If the temperature of the air is lower than the thermostat, it will send a message to the boiler to fire up, while if the temperature of the air is higher, it will tell the heating system to switch off.
Therefore, a thermostat positioned right by your draughty front door is going to kick in at a lower temperature than one in your living room. In this case, even though you are setting your thermostat to 21°C by the door, the temperature in the living room might be getting up to 24°C.
As a result, it is really important to know your house and how warm you need it, rather than just setting it at a certain level and forgetting about it. You can negate this by using a wireless thermostat that you can place where you like.
Insulation is just as important as your thermostat
It’s no good setting your thermostat to save energy if you are inefficient to begin with. You can set your thermostat down at 16°C or 17°C to save money, but if you have no insulation and an old inefficient boiler, you are still going to be spending a fortune, since whatever heat you pump into the home to warm it up, will quickly escape through the walls. If you set the thermostat to 25°C in a poorly insulated house, it might not even get that warm, because the rate of heat loss will be just too high. So increasing the amount of insulation in the loft, on the walls and under the floor is key to being able to heat your home effectively. Don’t forget your windows either; even if double glazing seems too expensive, secondary glazing like Ecoease could be the perfect way to reduce heat loss.
Every degree costs you money
Every house will vary, but the generally accepted rule is that for every degree you increase your thermostat, you will be paying an extra £60 a year. This is because your boiler needs to work harder to get the temperature up – if you have electric heating the savings could be even higher.
For larger or more inefficient homes, this can be much higher. So bear that in mind when you go to turn up your heating. If you need to be warmer, put on a jumper, or you could try supplementary heating like an infrared heating panel. This boosts the temperature in a room with instant heat, without having to turn up your thermostat for the whole house.
You shouldn’t be wearing shorts in the winter
It is a bit obvious, but you can keep your thermostat down if you wear warmer clothes. A recent study found that some people set their thermostat to 30°C, whilst many were setting it above 25°C. In a poorly insulated home, this would mean that the heating would just stay on all day, because that temperature will probably never be reached. These people would save hundreds of pounds a year by setting their thermostat to 21°C or below and wearing some thicker clothes.
Different rooms need different temperatures
Using only a thermostat means that you could be overheating other rooms in your home. Heating controls are really important. If you have them, use them. If you don’t have them, get them.
Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) let you control the temperature of each room individually. For example, a bedroom can be comfortable at 16°C (as you’ll be under the covers), whereas a living room might need to be warmer. Traditional TRV’s are simple, usually using a dial between 1-5 to set the rate, and you can pick them up for as little as £12.50, but there are also more high spec options. If you want full control of your heating system then smartphone enabled systems will give you the ability to zone out your house and only use the energy you need. This starter pack from tado provides everything you need to get set up with.
Don’t heat your home when you’re not there
It seems simple, but lots of people set their thermostat to 21°C and leave it there, even when they are out at work. Make sure you use your programmer as well, and if you want to control each room while you are out, you can get yourself a remotely controllable tool like a Nest. These gadgets let you control each room’s temperature remotely, even when you are out of the house.
Temperatures have been increasing for years
The average temperature of homes has increased over the decades. Ever since the advent of central heating, people feel like they should be able to walk around their home in a T-shirt in winter, whereas years ago people would wrap up even in their living room. Whilst there are certain situations where the heating needs to be up high (for instance when there is an elderly or unwell person in a room), you can usually wear a jumper and turn the thermostat down. Do we really need to have the heating up 4 degrees warmer than our parents had it a few decades back?
Can there ever be a perfect temperature that you should heat your home to?
The best answer as far as we are concerned is – the lowest comfortable temperature. Some people will happily turn down their heating in the bedroom but don’t want to wrap up in their living room, while others will put on jumpers and use an extra high tog duvet. At the end of the day, it’s your money – so decide for yourself what you are comfortable with, but don’t set the thermostat to 21°C simply out of habit!
Installing a new heating system
Are you thinking about installing a new heating system in your home?
If you would like us to find you a local installer, just fill in the form below and we will be in touch shortly!
Can I get cavity wall insulation for free?
July 21, 2016
Cavity wall insulation is a great way to increase the energy efficiency of your home – and increased energy efficiency means lower energy bills.
Until relatively recently, pretty much everyone was entitled to free cavity wall insulation. However in the last few months things have changed slightly.
The reason for this is that cavity wall insulation installers are paid via a scheme known as ECO. Basically installers get paid an amount per tonne of carbon saved. This sounds a bit ridiculous, but imagine your home uses a certain amount of energy for heating – once the cavity wall insulation is installed, the amount of energy the home uses should drop because there is less heat loss. This saved energy is converted to carbon tonne savings (gas produces CO2 when it burns).
Typically, bigger houses will tend to see greater energy savings when the cavity wall insulation is installed.
big house – 10% saving of 45,000kWh of gas is 4,500kWh
small house – 10% saving of 17,000kWh of gas is 1,700kWh
This means the amount of funding a larger property gets will tend to be bigger than a smaller property. The same is true when a property has a very old boiler, the savings are greater in these types of home.
ECO rates have dropped
The reason that 100% free cavity wall insulation doesn’t really happen that much any more is that despite the carbon savings being the same as they have always been, the rates the cavity wall installers are paid per tonne of carbon saved have dropped considerably.
Imagine an average cavity wall job costing £1,000 on a 3-bed end of terrace property. Previously, under ECO, the installer would have been paid £1,500 to carry out the install and hence this was 100% free for the homeowner.
Now though, the installer may only be getting £500 from ECO funding, so to cover the rest of the job they need a homeowner contribution.
Homeowner contributions for cavity wall insulation
As we have hopefully explained clearly above, it is rare now for a house to get 100% funding for free cavity wall insulation. Instead, the household will have to make some contribution to get the insulation installed. How much is entirely dependent on the energy performance certificate carried out by a qualified energy assessor – this will all be calculated by the cavity wall installer who will pay for an assessor to carry out this report.
The difficulty is that the homeowner contribution can vary from house to house; so while your next door neighbour (with a bigger property and more wall to insulate) may only pay £200, you could be given a quote for £500 or more. The key though is to find a good tradesman.
Avoid cowboy cavity wall installers!
Cavity wall insulation is a fantastic energy saving solution and is installed on millions of properties across the UK, however it is does not have a 100% success rate. There are some cavity walls that should not be filled with cavity wall insulation, regardless of whether the energy savings make it an attractive proposition. Properties that are privy to driving rain, or that are located on the coast, should not have cavity wall injected into the void between the skins of brick.
Most installers would know not to install cavity wall insulation where it is not suitable. Others, often desperate for work, will not make you aware of the potential issues that may occur further down the line. Unfortunately there are lots of unscrupulous ‘cowboy’ installers out there, so the key is to avoid them and only get good qualified tradesmen.
How to ensure you are getting good quality free cavity wall insulation
The number one thing you need to do to ensure you are getting a highly rated installer is to check whether the company offering you free cavity wall insulation has the Green Deal Quality Mark and PAS2030 processes in place.
PAS2030 is the certification that a company needs to carry out work under ECO scheme and will provide you with the guarantees and piece of mind that the work will be carried out to a high standard. For any company to achieve the PAS2030 mark of quality, they will need to have gone through rigorous testing to ensure their business practises are up to scratch, helping avoid the prospect of cowboys. Unfortunately, even PAS2030 doesn’t completely remove cowboys but it should certainly help!
If you do want to get a decent installer you may wish to ping us through your details below:
We only work with PAS2030 installers and we seek feedback on all our installers ensuring they know what they are talking about!
Interested in learning more about the funding streams within ECO? Read on to learn more!
HHCRO, CSCO and CERO
So ECO works on the energy savings from your home. However just to complicate things, there are three different streams of ECO funding – HHCRO, CSCO and CERO.
ECO is designed to address two areas: one, to help vulnerable members of society meet the rising cost of energy prices by increasing insulation and offering more efficient sources of heat; and two, to help make more expensive measures like insulating solid and hard-to-treat wall insulation more cost effective. HHCRO addresses the first area while CSCO and CERO address the second.
Postcodes and Free Cavity Wall Insulation – CSCO / CERO
Some houses in the UK fall into CSCO / CERO postcodes – these areas are eligible for cavity wall insulation grants. The properties are situated in areas of low income, vulnerable households in rural areas or the properties are identified as hard to ‘hard to treat’ (e.g. thinner cavities).
You can use the link below to see if your property falls into one of these areas:
Currently, around 25% of properties fall into the postcode area, but even if you are in those locations, you may still need to make a contribution depending on the carbon savings resulting from the install of cavity wall insulation.
Qualifying for Free Cavity Insulation through Income – HHCRO
There is another avenue of ECO grant funding based on your circumstances; this is called the ‘Home Heating Cost Reduction Obligation’ (HHCRO), or Affordable Warmth. If the householder is on income support (with related top-ups), receives pension credit or tax credits, you could be eligible for free insulation. In this instance, all that is required is an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) on the property, and you will also need to provide proof of your entitlements.
Paying for Cavity Wall Insulation
If you know for a fact that you don’t qualify for insulation through any of the means mentioned above, you can still get it installed; and after loft insulation, it offers one of the fastest returns on investment.
Biomass boilers are very similar to conventional gas boilers that you will be familiar with, providing you with space heating and hot water for the entire home, but instead of using gas (or oil) to produce the heat, they combust sustainably sourced wood pellets.
Using wood in place of fossil fuels helps to prevent long-term climate change, since the carbon dioxide released during the combustion was actually absorbed while the tree was growing, so they are essentially carbon neutral.
Each year, approximately 8.5 million tonnes of wood goes into landfill in the UK; this waste wood could be used in either biomass boilers (if converted into the pellets) or burned in wood burning stoves. This would not only provide heat and hot water, but in doing so, it would also ease the pressure on landfill capacity.
How does a biomass boiler work?
A biomass boiler works in a very similar way to conventional boilers, combusting fuel to produce heat that is then used to heat water. Biomass boilers are normally substantially bigger than their fossil fuel-burning brothers though, for a number of reasons. Firstly since they are burning wood pellets as opposed to gas, the boiler needs to be larger to hold the larger volume of fuel.
In addition, you may wish to install an automatic feed hopper on your biomass boiler, which will require additional room. This hopper stores a large volume of the wood pellets that are then automatically fed into the boiler as required, meaning that the boiler needs to be refuelled very infrequently.
It is also a good idea to have a store of the wood pellets at your property so you can keep producing heat if for some reason there is an issue with your fuel supplier. Ideally this should be close to where the fuel is delivered to your home, to minimise the distance you have to carry it.
Most residential biomass boilers can also run on logs as well as the wood chips, so if these are in plentiful supply or if you can source them cheaply or even for free, it will dramatically reduce the operational running cost of your biomass boiler.
Every four weeks or so, the biomass boiler will need to be emptied of the ash. This can be put straight onto a compost heap to help fertilise the soil.
Biomass boilers are designed to work all year round; however you may choose to turn them off in the summer. They can be coupled with solar heating or an electric shower, providing you with your hot water for washing only, during the warmer summer months.
How does biomass measure up against traditional fuels?
Biomass boilers measure up very favourably in terms of running costs vs. natural gas, heating oil and especially electricity. The numbers can all be seen in the table below.
Figures courtesy of Biomass Energy Centre
Fuel Type
Price per Unit
kWh per unit
Pence per kWh
Wood Chips
£100 / tonne
3,500kWh / tonne
2.9p / kWh
Wood Pellets
£200 / tonne
4,800kWh / tonne
4.2p / kWh
Natural Gas
4.8p / kWh
1
4.8p / kWh
Heating oil
60p / litre
10kWh / litre
6.0p / kWh
Electricity
14.5p / kWh
1
13.4p / kWh
Standalone boilers
A biomass boiler might simply be too big for your home, but smaller standalone wood burning stoves are also available, which are normally used to heat one room by burning logs or waste wood. These wood burning stoves can be fitted with a back boiler that uses the heat produced when the wood is combusted to heat water, that can then be used for either space heating elsewhere in the home or for hot water only.
Both standalone wood burning stoves and biomass boilers will need a vent, designed specifically for wood fuel appliances, with sufficient air movement for proper operation of the stove. Your existing chimney can be fitted with a lined flue, which is relatively inexpensive.
Can I get a free biomass boiler?
Under the Domestic Renewable Heat Incentive scheme, you will be eligible for payments towards the cost of installing the technology. These are quarterly, and over seven years, so you will still have to find the money to cover the upfront costs. How much funding you will receive depends on how energy efficient your home was before you installed your biomass boiler. You will start by having an EPC survey, and then payment rates are calculated by multiplying the ‘heat demand figure’ on your report by the current rate for biomass boilers. This means that some models will eventually be paid for fully by RHI payments, but many – especially top-end models – will not be covered completely. Find more information here.
Remember a carbon monoxide detector
It is really important when burning any type of hydrocarbon fuel (natural gas, coal, biomass) that you install a carbon monoxide detector in your home. In theory if all the fuel is 100% burned you produce heat, water and carbon dioxide, but in reality not all of the fuel burns. This means sometimes harmful gases like carbon monoxide can be emitted, which can be deadly. As long as you have a working carbon monoxide detector, you will be able to make full use of all the benefits a biomass boiler can bring.
Benefits
Biomass fuels are considered a renewable fuel – the carbon dioxide they produce when they are burnt is offset by the carbon dioxide they absorb while they are growing. Savings in carbon dioxide emissions are significant – up to 9.5 tonnes per year when a wood boiler replaces a solid (coal) fired system or electric storage heating.
Fuel savings are less significant, and if you replace a gas heating system with a wood burning system you may end up paying more for your fuel. But if you replace solid fuel or electric heating with the cheapest biomass fuel you could save between £170 and £390 per year. Typically, heating and hot water costs for a year will be around £1,000 in a detached property.
If you have a ready supply of logs at home you can effectively heat your home for free.
Limitations
There are increased maintenance requirements with this technology; for instance the wood pellets must be loaded on a regular basis to ensure it continues to provide energy. In addition, the ash bins need to be emptied from time to time.
You will need storage space to store the fuel at your home.
Wood costs often depend on the distance from your home to a wood supplier and whether you can buy and store wood in large quantities. If you have your own supply of wood fuel then this can significantly reduce your costs.
Cost
A standalone pellet stove may cost about £4,300 including installation; however for an automatically fed pellet boiler the cost is considerably higher at about £11,500.
A wood burner will cost anywhere between £500 and £3,000 depending on the size and style.
Installing a biomass boiler
Are you thinking about installing a biomass boiler? We have scoured the country for the best tradespeople, so that we can make sure we only recommend those we really trust.
If you would like us to find you a local installer, just fill in the form below and we will be in touch shortly!
How Energy Efficient are Homes in London?
March 10, 2014
London has undergone many waves of house building, with each type of home creating their own energy efficiency problems and areas for improvement.
It was 1965, that Building Regulations introduced the first limits on the amount of energy that could be lost through certain elements of a newly built house. However even until very recently, building standards were not sufficient to create what we would consider an efficient property.
Most housing in London was built well before building regulations really took effect and therefore it is fair to say that the majority is poorly insulated and fitted with inefficient heating systems. Yet these are very fixable problems.
There are plenty of ways you can improve the efficiency of your home, whether it be a 1900 Victorian terrace or a 1980s detached house. We thoroughly recommend an energy consultation to work out what is best for your home, as each property really is different and there is nothing better than tailored and personalised advice.
Need Help? Call us on 0208 819 9153
Having said this, you can tell a lot about a house by its age. As such, we can make some recommendations on the best steps for your home. It goes without saying that loft insulation should be up to standard (270mm) before you look at anything else – it really is the number 1 way to make your home more efficient, but here are some other key things you might want to consider to help lower your energy bills:
Pre 1930 London Properties:
Solid Walls – Seen on almost all Pre 1930’s homes, solid walls are very inefficient. You can insulate with either external or internal insulation and there is funding available to do so.
Timber floors in the majority of the home with cold solid concrete floor kitchens – It is fairly typical on Victorian terraces to see floorboards in the main area of the property and solid concrete floors in the extension. You should draught proof your floorboards using Draughtex and look at floor insulation – although this may involve lifting up the floorboards.
Sash windows – Large single glazed sash windows are fairly typical on homes built in this era. Sash window double-glazing is expensive, and there is usually a cheaper option like refurbishment or draught proofing. You can read more on this here. Remember, old properties like this typically have lots of chimneys, so make sure you have them blocked off or use a chimney balloon to cut out draughts here since these cold draughts can very quickly strip the home of any hot air.
1930’s London Properties:
Cavity Walls – After 1930, cavity walls became standard. This is great news for you, because cavities are very easily insulated and can make a big difference to your bills – they are simply injected from the outside with cavity wall insulation.
Suspended timber floors – Most 1930’s homes have timber floors, which can be either insulated or draught proofed.
Draught Proofing – Once again these homes could well be draughty so it is worth looking at getting your doors and windows draught proofed.
Post war 1945-70 London Properties:
Flat roofs – This isn’t always the case, but flat roofs became popular post-war, and were rarely well insulated. If you have one, make sure you look into flat roof insulation, this process is not as easy as you might hope, however the Government are currently offering £550 cashback if you were to opt getting this insulation installed via the Green Deal scheme.
System Built Houses – If you live in a prefab or a flat, you could be losing a lot of heat through the walls. You should look into wall insulation – this could be either cavity or solid wall.
Flats / Mid-High Rise – Flats present their own problems because the envelope of your home includes other people’s property, although having said that, where you have a party wall with a neighbour there should be no heat loss, so actually if you are in the middle of a block of flats this may actually be an advantage in terms of energy efficiency.
1970’s London Properties:
Single glazing / smaller windows – Many 1970’s properties have small single glazed windows. Secondary glazing may well be worthwhile considering here.
Cavity Walls – After the 60’s regulations on new homes meant that some insulation was fitted as standard, but it is still worth checking your cavity walls, as these were generally not insulated.
Watch out for old boilers / electric heating (off grid / now on grid but still with electric heating) – The 1970’s was a time of energy uncertainty. Some properties were built without a gas supply and therefore use electric storage heaters. Others have even more unconventional heating systems like back boilers, gas room heaters and electric ceiling heating that could be costing you money. Look at whether you can change to gas central heating or take advantage of the RHI for renewable heating such as heat pumps.
Modern London Properties:
If you live in a relatively modern house, your cavity walls should have already been filled, but there are a few things you can still look out for:
Loft Insulation top-up – Usually these properties have some loft insulation, but it may be worth getting a top up. Building regulations in the 80’s and 90’s was nowhere near today’s standards, so you could still save a tidy sum by getting more insulation.
Old Boilers / heating systems – Houses around 20 years old may still have the original boiler present. It is really worth switching over to a modern one and is likely to be the biggest way to save on a modern property.
Renewables – If your home is otherwise up to standard, it may be worth looking at renewable energy. Modern homes are likely to have roofs suitable for solar panels and technologies such as heat pumps work best in well insulated homes like yours.
Is the Green Deal Worth It?
February 24, 2014
UPDATE: As of 30 March 2016, the government has stopped funding and the Green Deal Home Improvement Fund is closed to new applications. You can read about it here.
When the Green Deal launched in early 2013, it had set the ambition of being the biggest retrofit buildings programme since World War Two; however the recently released Green Deal take-up figures from the Government have shown that thus far, this is definitely not the case!
Will then, the Green Deal be a bit of a damp squib and be confined to the dustpan of legislation programmes or is the sluggish start just like a longish runway before eventual take-off?
In this blog we explore some of the most typical questions that consumers are interested in when it comes to this programme and we provide our own view of how we have seen the programme roll-out over the last year or so.
Is the Green Deal Free?
One of the criticisms of the Green Deal is the initial cost of getting an assessment. Unfortunately, getting independent advice from a company not aligned with a Provider is going to cost you money. There is no government money towards getting a free or cheaper assessment.
Some customers who fall into certain benefit groups and those in certain postcodes, who have clear need of ECO funding towards a measure such as cavity or loft insulation, or a new boiler, could get a free assessment as part of this process, but it does not apply to everyone. You can give us a call or an email if you think you may qualify for a free assessment in this way.
So is the Green Deal worth it?
Having said that there is a cost involved, we think the cost of the assessment should be seen as more of an investment. Chances are you will find out about measures you can install or little things you could do that will save you many times the assessment cost in the long run. We find that customers who approach the assessment as a learning and fact finding experience get more out of their assessment. Just make sure you ask lots of questions when you meet your assessor. If they don’t know the answer, they will find out for you.
Is the Green Deal Interest Free?
No. There is a fixed interest rate attached of around 7-8% APR. This means that if you can afford to pay for the work up front, it will be cheaper for you in the long run. If you can’t however, the Green Deal is a one way of securing the funding before getting the work completed.
Where can I find Providers?
We are obligated to direct you to the Green Deal Orb, which has a list of all accredited providers, installers and assessing organisations. Unfortunately, the way the scheme works means that many companies claim to be nationwide, or say they can install any measure, because it allows them to generate leads that they can sell on.
This means that the providers that really do offer what you need can be tricky to find. We recommend that you ask your assessor for several local Green Deal Providers you can contact – as this can really expedite the process and ensure that the companies you are contacting really do offer the service they claim they do.
Why can’t I Find a Company that does the energy efficiency measure that I want on the Green Deal?
Many Green Deal Providers tend to focus on a few key measures that they can deliver, like wall insulation, or boilers. That is why it is worth ringing around to find a Provider that can help you. Unfortunately, there are some areas of the country and some measures which are as yet not covered by the Green Deal – it is really worth asking your assessor what measures are currently covered in your area and what you may have to get done privately.
If you are after something specific, it is really worth trying to find a provider that will do the work before you go for your assessment.
The Green Deal Favours certain Technologies
The Green Deal is great for more cost effective measures (for example loft insulation), since it has a low initial install cost and creates big yearly energy savings.
When we get customers ringing who are looking for something like double glazing that is not really cost effective (savings are minimal and the cost of installation is high), we will normally advise them the Green Deal may not be for them – since the amount of finance they will have access to will be negligible.
A good Green Deal Advisor Organisation (and we include ourselves here) should give you an honest appraisal over the phone – if they promise you the earth, it is often to good to be true!
Is it true that Green Deal cashback is set to finish in early 2014?
The Green Deal cashback scheme is not finished yet! The government recently announced that the cashback scheme would accept applications for cashback until at least June 2014, so there is still plenty of time to take advantage.
Be aware however, some providers are not setup to do Green Deal Cashback. It is really worth finding a Provider that does, because you can get paid up to £1,000 for installing some measures.
The Government also announced the amount of cashback available under the Green Deal has increased – you can find more out on this here.
Any other questions about the Green Deal?
If you have any questions about the Green Deal, Energy Efficiency or Self Generation, please do get in touch on 0208 144 0897 or mailbox@thegreenage.co.uk.
If you have purchased – or are about to purchase – infrared heaters, then understanding where to put them is important to get the best results.
Infrared heating panels don’t operate like conventional convection heating, which warms air. Instead the panels emit far-infrared radiation, which travels unimpeded until it hits a solid object, which will in turn absorb the infrared and then heat up. Do not mistake infrared with harmful UV light, which is on the other side of the light spectrum – infrared is 100% safe.
The main thing to remember is that if the infrared radiation is impeded before it reaches its destination, then the object will not warm up. As a result, to get the most out of the heating panel it should ideally be fitted in the centre of the room. Or if you have a larger area and are getting a number of panels, then they should be evenly distributed in that space. The panels should be above seating areas so as not to be shadowed, which is why positioning on the ceilings is by far the most popular.
The distribution of infrared heater rays
When the panel is positioned on the wall or ceiling, the infrared radiation will travel at 45o angles in all directions. If they are in a corner and too close to a wall other than the one they are attached to, then you will be warming a small concentrated area; this is not ideal since you will be wasting potentially useful heat. For this reason it is paramount that you don’t position the panels too close to the walls: rather ‘centre’ them as much as possible.
300Watt and 350Watt panels should be at least 0.5m (1.5 feet) or more from the floor – and the larger panels (basically anything over 600Watts) should be at least 1.5m (5 feet) away. When the panels are on they will beam the infrared radiation up to 3m(10 feet). If you have higher ceilings, please give us a ring and we can discuss appropriate models to use in this instance.
If you install the panels on the walls, then you should try and position them as high as possible. Positioning them too low will almost certainly result in furniture blocking the infrared radiation, which will limit their heating.
For the smaller panels we recommend having them at least 1.0m (over 3 feet) and for the bigger panels this to be positioned 2.0m (6 to 7 feet) high. Like your radiators, the surface temperature of the panels gets to about 80oc, so do not touch or have objects too close to them.
The installation process
All our panels come with a UK plug, so you can simply plug in and go, but we recommend hardwiring them into an electric circuit where possible. This allows you to use a proper switch (like a light switch) to turn them on. It also means you can install a smart heating system for optimal efficiency. We strongly recommend a professional installation and having the panels ‘hard wired’ into your electrical system by a Part P-qualified electrician.
In terms of the installations themselves we anticipate that most customers will seek the advice and expertise of a Part P qualified electrician who will hardwire the units to a thermostat and the property circuit board. You can find out whether your electrician is Part P qualified by looking up their details on the Competent Person Register.
The infrared panels will invariably come with a frame on the back, which allows you to easily attach them to the wall. This does mean that the panels will sit about 1-2 cm off the wall.
Although the panels radiate heat from their front surface (which will get warm), the reflector technology will ensure that there is no heat being emitted out of the back. The fact they are sitting away from the wall also helps in this respect.
Most of the panels that are sold should be supplied with screws and fixings to get the panels attached to the wall or roof. We do recommend getting an electrician to fix them in position though, and hardwire them into your mains electricity rather than simply run through an existing plug socket.
When the panels are plugged in, they take about 90 seconds to get up to full heat intensity and since you don’t need to wait for the air to get warm, you should feel their effect very quickly. To stop the panels from overheating, they will modulate and come on and off as required; however we recommend having them installed with some form of thermostatic control to ensure the room doesn’t get too warm. The most basic option is a timer plug adapter, however we recommend going for a proper thermostat and programmer unit if you have the funds available.
The installation is carried out as follows:
Mark and drill the four holes, insert wall plugs and screws with eye bolts supplied, these ensure about 0.5cm spacing from the ceiling;
Tighten screws and insert the screws into the mounting profile on the reverse of panel.
Then when connecting to the wireless thermostat:
Connect a permanent 240 volt mains supply to terminals L and N in the receiver,
Connect the infrared panel neutral (blue) wire to the neutral (N) terminal in the receiver,
Connect the infrared panel live (brown) wire to the normally open (NO) terminal in the receiver,
Connect a permanent link wire between live (L) and common (C) terminals in the receiver
This will ensure that when the receiver switches the power on it will reach the panel. Please note – switch contacts alone are volt-free and will not therefore supply power directly to the panel.
Installing infrared panels in the bathroom
Good infrared panels are either IP45 or IP54 rated, which means they can also be used in bathrooms. It is worth bearing in mind that building regulations state that any electrical bathroom installations should be undertaken by a Part P qualified electrician, who in turn will complete a BS7671 installation certificate.
The pull switch or programmer needs to sit outside the bathroom. In terms of placement, the unit needs to be at least 0.6m (2 feet) from a shower or a bath. In addition if you are placing it above a washbasin, please ensure it is at least 13cm away. Again, your electrician should be able to advise and action as appropriate.
Benefits
Having your panels installed by a Part P qualified electrician will ensure that any potential risks are minimised.
Infrared rays are safe! Do not confuse them with UV, which are not.
Fit and forget technology, very little maintenance required.
Limitations
‘Shadowing’ – if there are objects inhibiting the movement of infrared rays across the room they may not work as effectively.
The thermal comfort will also depend on how well insulated your property is. The poorer the insulation, the more the panels have to work and the less comfortable you may feel as the property is naturally draughty.
Installing infrared heating
Are you thinking about installing infrared heating in your home? We have scoured the country for the best tradespeople, so that we can make sure we only recommend those we really trust.
If you would like us to find you a local installer to help install infrared heating in your home, just fill in the form below and we will be in touch shortly!
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